House of Worth
Basic Information
The House of Worth was a French haute couture fashion house founded by English designer Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) in Paris in 1858. Located at 7 Rue de la Paix, it was the premier fashion house in Paris during the Second Empire and Belle Époque periods, essentially creating the concept of haute couture as we understand it today.
Significance in Marie Bashkirtseff's Life
Marie Bashkirtseff's diary entries from August 1873 reveal her fascination with the House of Worth and her desire to own garments from this prestigious establishment. During her visit to Paris, she mentions visiting Worth multiple times, including a morning visit on August 27 to order a dress before her departure.
Marie's detailed descriptions of Worth dresses and their prices (700-1900 francs) demonstrate both the substantial cost of haute couture and her own social aspirations. Her preference for her Worth dress over creations from other fashion houses like Laferrière reflects Worth's superior status in the fashion hierarchy of the time.
For Marie, wearing Worth creations was not merely about fashion but about establishing her position in high society. Her willingness to spend significant sums on Worth garments, despite financial constraints, reveals the importance she placed on appearance and material display in the social world she inhabited and aspired to conquer.
Historical Context
By 1873, when Marie visited the establishment, the House of Worth was at the height of its influence and prestige. Charles Frederick Worth had revolutionized the fashion industry by transforming the traditional dressmaker into a fashion designer in the modern sense.
Worth pioneered many practices that became standard in the fashion industry:
- Using live models to present seasonal collections to clients
- Creating a brand identity and attaching his label to garments
- Presenting clients with designs to choose from rather than following their specifications
- Creating seasonal collections with new designs
The House of Worth dressed European royalty, including Empress Eugénie of France, Empress Elisabeth of Austria, and Queen Victoria, as well as wealthy Americans and prominent figures from around the world. Worth's designs were characterized by rich fabrics such as silk, velvet, and satin, often incorporating multiple fabrics in a single garment with elaborate trimmings including lace, beading, and embroidery.
In 1873, Worth's designs featured elaborate bustle silhouettes that had replaced the earlier crinoline styles of the 1860s. The silhouette was characterized by a tight-fitting bodice and a skirt that projected at the back, supported by a bustle.
Later History
After Charles Frederick Worth's death in 1895, his sons Gaston-Lucien (1853-1924) and Jean-Philippe (1856-1926) continued the business. The House of Worth remained influential into the early 20th century but gradually declined in prominence with changing fashion trends after World War I. The house finally closed in 1952, though the Worth name was revived in 1999 for a perfume line.
Mentions in the Diary
- August 1873: Marie visits Worth multiple times during her stay in Paris
- August 27, 1873: She makes a morning visit to Worth to order a dress before her departure
- Marie mentions prices of 700 francs for a dress from Worth and 1,900 francs for her aunt's dress
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